Although our transit to Seldom Come By was in part via Dildo Run, we were assured that the two place names are in no way related. In fact, Seldom Come By gets its name from the fact that it is such a fine harbor, situated in such a convenient location on Fogo Island, that Labrador bound schooners would seldom come by without stopping in. The old Fishermen's Union Trading Co. has restored a couple of their buildings to provide a fine facility for yachts. Showers, laundry and wharfage for $15.00 Canadian (2001). The old store and chandlery, as well as part of the cod liver oil production facility, have been made into a museum and marine interpretive center. Fogo Island is also the location of Brimstone Head, which is claimed by the Flat Earth Society as one of the four corners of the earth. Having come so close to the brink on this voyage, we are pleased to find that corner still well anchored upon our return.

Transmogrified from the Italian for "what a fine view", Bonavista, Newfoundland indeed affords a very fine view of the fjords and mountains of Terra Nova National Park to the west, and the open Atlantic to the east. Giovanni Caboto, having been turned down by the kings of Portugal and Spain, persuaded Henry VII of England to sponsor his cruise. Sponsorship is the dream of all cruisers committed to sailing in search of adventure, but Cabot's came with a few strings attached. His cruising kitty compelled him "to seek out, discover and find…and set up banners and ensigns in all newly discovered lands, and subdue, occupy and possess all such in the King's name."

Cabot failed to subdue or even to occupy, but he did set up a couple of banners and carve his name into a rock on Cape Bonavista. Then, having enjoyed the fine view for less than a full day, he left and returned to England. Welcomed as a hero by Henry VII, he was rewarded with £10 and sent back to finish the job. Although he did lead a larger expedition the following year, little is known of it. John Cabot and the five ships that sailed were never seen again.

Bonavista today, however, is the site of a carefully researched and crafted reconstruction of a 15th century Caravel like Cabot's Matthew, complete with its own huge boathouse equipped with hydraulic lift to facilitate winter haul-out.

The reconstruction and special boathouse are emblematic of the Newfoundlander's close relationship to their maritime heritage. Newfoundlanders are people "of the sea" more than anywhere else I've ever traveled. Although Newfoundlanders, like those of us from New England or the Pacific North West, have lost much of their seafaring heritage, they remain closer to it in many ways than do we.

We are no longer the children of Yankee whalers, Grand Banks dory men, or maritime fur traders, but most Newfoundlanders still count mariners, fishermen and sealers among their cousins, fathers and uncles. On this cruise we have come to know a good many of these people, including university trained professionals whose still living fathers were Labrador fishermen and sealers. Many of these university graduates also participated in the fisheries at some time, worked aboard coastal freighters, or were in some other manner directly involved in Newfoundland's maritime heritage. One of these is a lawyer that we met who has sailed nearly everywhere, or so it would seem, that the Atlantic permits. Recently, drinking beer one evening with a few friends, conversation turned to their mutual interest in Iceland. A decision was taken that very evening, and within a few days off they went, across the North Atlantic, bound for Iceland. They stayed a few days, loved the place but found it expensive, then sailed home. What they really loved, of course, was the sailing and the impulsiveness of the whole undertaking.

From Bonavista we took advantage of strong offshore winds to press on for St. John's. It was getting critical that I attend to the rebuilding of the troublesome fuel injection pump, and St. John's offered the first opportunity to locate the sort of specialist that this job would require. The Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club in Long Pond would be our base for a few days while I attended to this task. We would take advantage of the downtime while the pump was in the shop to do the tourist thing in St. John's.

St. John's claims to be the oldest city in North America, although St. Augustine, Florida may take issue. No matter, as St. John's has plenty to offer when it comes to a rich history. Unfortunately, a succession of great fires periodically destroyed the city, leaving none of the very early structures remaining. But the late 19th century architecture, in particular the especially colorful row houses that wind their way up and across the steep hill sides surrounding the harbor, convey the true character of the place.